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The capital of its province, and indeed of northern Lazio as a whole, VITERBO is easily the region's most historic centre, a medieval town that during the thirteenth century was once something of a rival to Rome. It was, for a time, the residence of popes, a succession of whom relocated here after friction in the capital. Today there are some vestiges of its vanquished prestige – a handful of grand palaces and numerous medieval churches, enclosed by an intact set of medieval walls. The town is a well-kept place and refreshingly untouched by much tourist traffic but only really worth staying in if you're … more »

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