VIAREGGIO , 22km northwest of Pisa, is a large and once-elegant nineteenth-century resort, which continues to aim – with limited success – for a well-heeled clientele. It has its attractions, with a fair amount of nightlife (including big-name concerts and hot dance clubs) complemented by some neat Art Deco buildings along Passeggiata Margherita. But the beaches are private and charge upwards of €18 for admission, and in season the hotels are either full or demand pensione completa . Aim instead for Viareggio's famously boisterous Carnevale (in February); for four consecutive … more »

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