Udine, Italy

UDINE, 71km northwest of Trieste, is the second city of Friuli-Venezia Giulia. With less than half the population of the regional capital, it presents a radically different complexion. Hemmed in by sombre suburbs – to which the weather conditions are often a match – the oval-shaped historic centre comprises essentially Italian charms. In many ways Udine harks back to the Venetian Republic, of which it was also the number two city. Admittedly, its canals, called roggie, are little more than rivulets compared to those of Venice, but its gorgeous Piazza della Libertà could have been airlifted directly from La Serenissima. In addition to grand architecture, the churches and galleries here also boast scores of fine works by Giambattista Tiepolo, whose airy brilliance evokes the city's easygoing atmosphere on a fine day, when the watery light from the canals dances on nearby walls. Two relaxed days provide enough time to get a good taste of what Udine has to offer.