Lago Buenos Aires, Argentina

With four thousand inhabitants, PERITO MORENO is the most populous town in this part of the world. It's a typically featureless, spread-out Patagonian settlement and is of use to the visitor only as a base for excursions to places such as the Cueva de las Manos Pintadas, or for its transport services to Posadas and to the border at Los Antiguos/Chile Chico. There is, though, a wildlife refuge (free) within town, the Laguna de los Cisnes, where Black-necked Swans and flamingoes pass their time – if there's enough water.

The bus terminal is just north of town on RP-43, by the Petrobras fuel station; from here, cross the road and walk down Avenida San Martín to reach the town centre in about ten minutes. Chaltén Travel buses stop outside the Hotel Belgrano, at the far end of San Martin, en route between Bariloche and El Chaltén, while El Guraño buses for Bajo Caracoles and Posadas (Tues around 5–6pm) leave from Hotel Santa Cruz, three blocks west of San Martín, at Belgrano 1565. For those heading south, Perito Moreno is the best place until El Calafate to change money – the Banco de Santa Cruz at San Martín 1493 has an ATM and sells Chilean pesos – or stock up on food, at one of several panaderías lining San Martin.

Accommodation is neither good value nor abundant – if you're heading to Chile, it's better to push on to Los Antiguos or Chile Chico across the border. Even better, funds permitting, try one of the nearby tourist estancias, La Serena, on the road to Los Antiguos, or Telken, to the south.

None of Perito Moreno's restaurants is particularly special, but Patagones restaurant-bar, at San Martín and Mitre, has filling home-made burgers and a good taste in rock music, while Nono's, at 9 de Julio and Saavedra, does a decent attempt at pizza.