Norcia, Italy

The very pleasant mountain retreat of NORCIA is the only place of any size or substance in the Valnerina. Noted on the one hand as the birthplace of St Benedict – founder of Western monasticism – and on the other as the producer of Italy's top salami, it has an air of charming dereliction, and its low, sturdy houses (built to be earthquake-resistant) are a world away from the pastoral, fairy-tale cities to the west. If transport allows, it could be the base for some good trips into neighbouring territory, particularly the famed Piano Grande and the mountains to the east and north. A big new road through the mountains into Marche has opened and brought in more visitors – good news for local employment, which is scarce, but a possible challenge to the environment. Hang-gliders and winter-sports enthusiasts have also discovered the area, another mixed blessing.