Backed by the slopes of Monte Baldo and blessed with the same windsurfer-friendly winds as Torbole, MALCESINE , 14km further south, has been inundated with British and German package tourists in the last few years and the crowds temper much of the appeal of what is left of the old town. The main sight is a thirteenth-century turreted Castello (April–Oct daily 9am–9pm; rest of year Sat & Sun only; €4), built, like Sirmione's, by the Scaligeri family. Goethe was imprisoned here briefly in 1786, having been arrested on suspicion of being a spy – he'd been caught making sketches of … more »

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