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Until the mid-nineteenth century, GROSSETO was a malaria-ridden backwater. The draining of the marshes, however, which was finally effected under Mussolini, has transformed it into a provincial capital for the Maremma. Grosseto was rebuilt after the war with a rash of dreary condominiums and is deservedly undervisited, though you may well find yourself passing through. Piazza Dante , at the heart of the old town, has a quirky statue showing Leopoldo II protecting Mother Maremma and crushing the serpent malaria under his foot. The adjacent Duomo was started in 1294 but virtually nothing is left to suggest … more »

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