At just 20km from Rome, FRASCATI is the nearest of the Castelli towns and also the most striking, dominated by the majestic Villa Aldobrandini , built by Giacomo della Porta in 1598 for one Cardinal Aldobrandi. Since it still belongs to the family you can't actually get inside, but the gardens are open to the public (Mon–Fri: summer 9am–1pm & 3–6pm; winter 9am–1pm & 3–5pm; free). These are somewhat neglected these days, and sadly the potentially spectacular water garden at the rear of the villa is often switched off. But the view from the terrace in front of the house is … more »

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