Thirty-minutes' train ride north of Bologna, FERRARA was the residence of the Este dukes, an eccentric dynasty that ranked as a major political force throughout Renaissance times. The Este kept the main artists of the day in commissions and built a town which, despite a relatively small population, was – and still is – one of the most elegant urban creations of the period.
With its grand squares, restored medieval palaces and portico-lined streets, looks a bit like a mini Bologna. It's a popular stop for tourists travelling up from Bologna to Venice, but they rarely stay, leaving the city centre enjoyably peaceful in the evenings.
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