COURMAYEUR is the smartest and most popular of Valle d'Aosta's ski resorts, much used by package-tour operators. The skiing is good, though there's little to challenge experts, and the scenery is magnificent, but, predictably, what remains of the old village is enmeshed in a web of ersatz Alpine chalets and après-ski hangouts. If you simply want a week of skiing, you'll probably do better to take a package; if you've come to hike or take the big-dipping cable cars across to Chamonix, the most convenient place to stay is LA PALUD , 5km outside Courmayeur (three buses a day). The cable car … more »

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