The first port of call by steamer on the western shore of Lake Como is Cernobbio (also accessible by frequent bus from Como's Piazza Matteotti), whose main claim to fame is the swanky Villa d'Este hotel (tel 031.34.81, www.villadeste.it ; over €200), a palatial sixteenth-century confection in an opulent garden. The hotel's extravagant gardens with statues, fountains and grottoes and its atmosphere of moneyed comfort make it very popular with Americans including stars from Greta Garbo to Woody Allen and Madonna. If your pockets aren't up to this, you'll have to content yourself … more »