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Bang in the middle of the Ionian coast, CATANIA is Sicily's second-largest city and despite the ever-looming presence of Etna – even the city's main street is named after the volcano – and the ubiquitous black-grey volcanic stone in pavements and buildings, there's more openness and space than in the island's capital. A major transport hub, and predominantly a businesslike, commercial centre, it's nevertheless one of the island's most historic and intriguing cities. Some of the island's first Greek colonists settled the site as early as 729 BC, becoming so … more »

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