The approach to ATRI , about 10km inland from Pineto, is like travelling through the background of a Renaissance painting, with gently undulating hills planted with orderly olive groves giving way to a surrealist landscape of sleek clay gullies known as calanchi , water-eroded into smooth ripples, wrinkles and folds. Atri's Duomo contains Abruzzo's greatest cycle of frescoes, and the town itself, with its narrow stepped and bridged streets, is one you're likely to be reluctant to leave. A decision to stay may be helped along by the fact that the town has a great hotel – three-star quality at … more »

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