Anzio, Italy

Just 40 km or an hour by train, ANZIOis an easy day-trip from Rome. While the town itself is a resort, the water is not particularly clean and the real draw is for the town's historical monuments, both modern and ancient. Much of the town was damaged during a difficult Allied landing here on January 22, 1944, to which two military cemeteries (one British, on the road to Aprilia, and another, American, just outside nearby Nettuno, COTRAL buses pass both) bear testimony, as does a small museum (Via di Villa Adele, Tues, Thurs, Sat & Sun 10.30am–12.30pm & 4–6pm; free). North of the harbour are the seaside ruins of the Villa di Nerone (daily: summer 10.30am–12.30pm & 3.30–5.30pm; winter 10.30am–12.30pm & 2.30–4.30pm). Nero was vacationing at this sprawling beachfront estate, now a backdrop for sunbathers, when the infamous fire of 64 AD broke out in Rome.

In town, the seafood restaurants that crowd together along the harbour are not unreasonably priced. La Cicala, right by the water at Riviera Zanardelli 11 (Tel:06.984.6747; winter closed Wed), is as good as any; nearby at Via Porto Innocenziano 19, Romolo al Porto (Tel:06.984.4079; closed Wed & Jan), is universally recognized as Lazio's best fish restaurant. Anzio is also a possible route to Ponza; hydrofoils leave daily June to September from Via Porto Innocenziano (Tel:069.845.083, Web: www.vetor.it ). For timings and other information, ask at the tourist office at Piazza Pia (Mon– Sat: winter 9.30am–1pm & 4.30–6.30pm; summer 9.30am–1pm & 5.30–7.30pm; Tel:069.845.147).