Severely damaged by war and earthquakes, workaday ANCONA has a few historical monuments embedded in a tangle of commercial buildings. The modern centre is a grid of broad avenues and palm-shaded piazzas, while the station area, with its heavy trucks travelling noisily to and from the port, will probably make you want to take the next train out. However, as the Adriatic's largest port it's a convenient departure point, and you may well pass through in order to catch one of the regular ferries to Greece and Croatia. The city is even more of a gateway to the Marche region of late with Ryanair's direct … more »

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