Despite the recent attentions of Club Med and a barrage of modern building outside town, CEFALÙ remains a fairly small-scale fishing port, partly by virtue of its geographical position – tucked onto every available inch of a shelf of land beneath a fearsome crag, La Rocca. Roger II founded a mighty cathedral here in 1131 and, as befitting one of the most influential early European rulers, his church dominates the skyline, the great twin towers of the facade rearing up above the flat roofs of the medieval quarter. Naturally, it's the major attraction in town, but most visitors are equally tempted by … more »

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