Boasting one of the most sheltered stretches of sea in Java, Carita is the best spot to arrange tours (day-trips $50) to Krakatau. Tours run by Black Rhino (Tel:0253/81072), across from the marina, are recommended, but don't fall for the unqualified guides who approach you on spec. Buses run from the Kalideres bus station in Jakarta to Lubuan (3hr); from here you can pick up a colt to Carita – don't get conned into taking transport round to the stop for colts, which is just two minutes' walk towards the seafront and round to the right. All accommodation in Carita is on or close to the main seaside road, known as Jalan Carita Raya or Jalan Pantai Carita. Prices shoot up at the weekend, when the town is invaded by jetskiers. Friendly staff, clean rooms and interesting decor make Sunset View (Tel:0253/81075; under $5) one of the best-value places on the west coast. Carita Krakatau (Tel:0253/83027; under $10), behind the restaurant of the same name, is also recommended and offers spotless rooms with mandi, fan and breakfast.
The public parts of the beach in Carita are lined with food carts selling murtabak, sate and soto. Carita Krakatau, 30m towards Anyer from the marina, cooks a good fish steak for, while Diminati, opposite the entrance to the marina, boasts the cheapest cold beer in town and does an excellent kakap fish steak meal.