Junagadh, India

The small town of JUNAGADH is an intriguing place, with a skyline broken by domes and minarets and narrow streets whose shopfronts are piled high with pyramids of spices. With its lively bazaars, Buddhist monuments, Hindu temples, mosques, bold Gothic archways and faded mansions – not to mention the magnificent Jain temples on Mount Girnar – Junagadh is an exciting city to explore for anyone with an interest in architecture and a taste for history.

From the fourth century BC to the death of Ashoka (c.232 BC), Junagadh was the capital of Gujarat under the Buddhist Mauryas. The short reigns of the Kshatrapas and the Guptas came to an end when the town passed into the hands of the Hindu Chudasanas, who in turn soon lost out to Muslim invaders. Muslim sovereignty lasted until Independence whenlocal pressure ensured it became part of the Indian Union. Because of the sanctity of Mount Girnar, 4km away, the Shivratri Mela (Feb/March) assumes particular importance in Junagadh, when thousands of saffron-clad sadhus come to camp around the town. Fireworks, processions, chanting, chillum-smoking and demonstrations of body-torturing ascetic practices continue for nine days and nights, and performances of folk dances and Bhawai theatre are staged. Meanwhile, every November up to one million people take part in the Parikrama, a five-day 36km walk around the base of the Girnar and the surrounding hills.

Junagadh is fairly compact, focused on the busy market area around Chittakhana Chowk. To the north, near the railway station, quiet wide roads lead past the majestic Maqbara monuments, while in the south, congested streets surround Circle and Janta chowks. The former comprises a fine semicircular terrace between towering Gothic gateways, while the latter is dominated by Durbar Hall with its modest museum. MG Road continues further south to Kalwa Chowk, another hub of activity.