Borgarnes, Iceland

On leaving Akranes the Ringroad covers a lonely and exposed 38km before reaching BORGARNES, the principal town of the Borgarfjrur region, which not only enjoys a spectacular setting on a narrow neck of land reaching out into the fjord but also has excellent views inland to the glaciers of Eirksjkull and Langjkull. The stretch of road from Akranes, particularly around Hafnarfjall, on the southern approach to Borgarnes, is one of the most hazardous in the entire country -- facing westwards, it takes the full brunt of violent storms which drive in from the Atlantic and not surprisingly closes frequently during the winter months, as cars have been overturned here by the brute force of the wind. In summer things are not quite so severe but it is still an extremely windy spot.

Unlike most other coastal settlements, Borgarnes isn't dependent on fishing -- powerful tidal currents in the fjord have put paid to that -- but is primarily a service centre for the surrounding dairy farmers who rely on the town's slaughterhouse and good roads for their livelihoods. However, the town's main claim to fame is its historical association with the ninth-century settler, Skallagrmur Kveldlfsson, father of the pirate, thug and poet Egill Skallagrmsson, hero of Egill's Saga (see below). Their lives and times are explored in a first-rate museum, while plenty of Borgarnes' streets recall characters from the saga: Skallagrmsgata, Kveldlfsgata, Bvarsgata and Egilsgata to name but a few.