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Chaotic, congested and polluted, GUATEMALA CITY is in many ways the antithesis of the rest of the country. The capital was moved here in 1776, after the destruction of Antigua, but the site had been of importance long before the arrival of the Spanish. Now the largest city in Central America, its shapeless and swelling mass, ringed by shantytowns, is home to over three million people – about a quarter of Guatemala's population – and the undisputed centre of the country's politics, power and wealth. Sprawling across a sweeping highland basin, surrounded on three sides by low hills and volcanic … more »

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