Kamari, Greece

Ferries and hydrofoils dock at the dull village of KAMARIÓTISSA. While you're unlikely to want to spend much time here, it does make a convenient base, as some of Samothráki's best hotels lie along or just behind the tree-lined seafront and various rooms for rent can be found in the maze of streets behind; owners often meet incoming vessels. Accommodation can be pricey for what you get, and bargaining is not always productive, especially in midsummer. Along the shore, some way east of where you arrive, is Kyma (Tel:25510 41263; Price: € 31-40), where rooms overlooking the pebbly beach can get noise from the establishments below. Occupying a bluff to the northeast, the slightly impersonal Aeolos (Tel:25510 41595, F25510 41810; Price: € 61-85) has a large pool and quiet, spacious rooms; Samothráki's most comfortable accommodation, it offers good half-board deals out of season. The spacious new Kyrkos apartments (Tel:25510 41620; Price: € 41-60), 500m from the port, just off the road to Hóra, can also be booked through their car rental agency (see below). Bars and cafés on the harbour front serve snacks and breakfasts – lively Aktaion also has Internet – while the best of the tavernas is the Iy Klimataria, towards the northeast end, serving fresh fish and meat.

Motorbikes and cars are in short supply in season; reserve a bike in advance from Hanou Brothers (Tel:25510 41511) or a car from Niki Tours (Tel:25510 41465), or either one from Kyrkos car rental (Tel:25510 69728). A car is preferable, as Samothracian roads are often dangerously windswept for bikes. The only fuelling station on the entire island is 1km above the port, en route to Hóra. A fairly reliable timetable for island buses is also posted at the port; these travel up to eight times daily in season (twice weekly in winter) along the north coast to Loutrá (Thermá) via Paleópoli, near the site of the Sanctuary, or Karyótes, or directly inland seven times daily to the largest village, Hóra. A converted container opposite the docks acts as a ticket and information offices for ferries and hydrofoils.