Leipzig, Germany

Many people are surprised by Leipzig's beauty. Any preconceptions of a shabby, grey, socialist metropolis are swiftly forgotten upon arrival. Leipzig's city centre has been completely refurbished since German reunification and its magnificent historical buildings once again bask in their former splendour. A prime example is the Hauptbahnhof , an awesome turn-of-the-century construction which used to be Europe's largest train station, but which has now been transformed into a Mecca for shoppers. 130 shops and boutiques now compete for consumers' hard-earned Deutschmarks. In short, anyone who was familiar with Leipzig before 1989 would scarcely recognize the city today. The motto "Leipzig is coming!" is extremely appropriate motto for this forward-looking city.

Yet the traces of Leipzig's recent past are still visible. If you take a walk down some of the side-streets outside the city center, you can't help but notice the extent at which the city was allowed to fall into disrepair during the socialist East German era. Decayed old buildings are overshadowed by enormous, prefabricated high-rises, which although spruced up, still stand out as unshapely hulks and blot the otherwise harmonious cityscape.

Most of Leipzig's major sights are easily accessible on foot, and are often interspersed by tree-lined parks and squares—making a stroll through the city center a relaxing and enjoyable experience. Good public transport links also make excursions to the outlying areas a simple matter.

City Centre / Old Town:

The most central starting-off point is the spacious Marktplatz , situated between Petersstraße and Grimmaische Straße . The aroma of coffee and freshly baked cakes wafts out of the atmospheric cafes and bars which line the square, many of which spill into the crooked little alleyways nearby.

The Altes Rathaus —a beautiful Renaissance building erected in just nine months—used to be the city hall, but now houses the Stadtgeschichtliches Museum , a fascinating museum depicting Leipzig's history from Medieval times to the present day. The north-western corner of the square contains two other historic buildings: Webers Hof, a typical bourgeois home, and Adler Apotheke, where the author Theodor Fontane worked from 1841 to 1842 as a chemist's assistant.

On the western side of the Marktplatz, you'll see Barthels Hof (1523), Leipzig's oldest commercial building and the first structure in the city to be built in the Renaissance style. Goethe was overwhelmed by the "spacious rooms" which where reminiscent of the country's "great castles". In the nearby Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum Museum and Cafe , visitors can enjoy a "Schälchen Heeßen" (as the locals affectionately refer to their coffee) in one of the oldest coffee shops on the continent. The Messehaus am Markt was home to the world's first underground trade fair - a 5,000 square metre complex where books, watches and hunting instruments were exchanged.

Behind the Altes Rathaus is the Alte Handelsbörse on Naschmarkt, where a bronze statue stands in memory of J.W. Goethe, who studied here between 1765 and 1768. A few steps away in the magnificent Mädler Passage, visitors can wine and dine in Auerbachs Keller , which was featured in Goethe's classic work, Faust.

Leipzig is blessed with dozens of historic buildings which are best explored on a stroll through the city. Fine examples include the impressive baroque buildings on Katharinenstraße, churches such as Thomaskirche , Nikolaikirche , Paulinkirche und Matthäikirche, or the Alte Waage, where imported goods used to be weighed and taxed.

It's also worth popping into the University of Leipzig to take a glimpse of the place where many a famous German studied. Known by locals as the "steep tooth" or the "wisdom tooth", the main building is 34 floors high and towers over the city.

For those interested in all things cultural, the Neues Gewandhaus - home to the world-famous Gewandhausorchester—shouldn't be missed. Other cultural landmarks include the Opera House , the Moritzbastei, the Johann Sebastian Bach Museum , the Egyptian Museum and the Museum of Natural History.

Yet perhaps the best thing about Leipzig is the pulsating multicultural atmosphere that permeates its city center, day and night. In summertime, every street seems to metamorphose into an outdoor cafe or beer garden. And the 3.5 km-long promenade which encircles the old city offers both locals and tourists the chance to relax and take a breather.

The South:

The city's most imposing structure is without a doubt the Völkerschlachtdenkmal , located in the district of Probstheida. Inaugurated on 18th October 1913 to mark the 100th anniversary of the Völkerschlacht (The "Battle of the Nations"), the memorial remains controversial to this day. The 90 metre-high viewing platform offers a breathtaking views over Leipzig.

The National Library and the National Museum of Books and Writing are also located in the southern part of Leipzig. The latter boasts an impressive collection of priceless scripts and patents. Located not far away is the Alte Messe - Leipzig's old exhibition center with 22 halls and 27 pavilions—which is living testimony of the crucial role that trade fairs and exhibitions have played in the history and development of the city. Numerous film and TV companies are also based in this area, cementing Leipzig's reputation as a media hotspot.

The district of Lößnig is worth a visit for its unique architectural layout. The so-called Rundling is a fine example of 1930s residential housing. With all its buildings arranged in a circle around a central area (Siegfriedplatz), the Rundling offered modern and affordable housing for large, working-class families.

Heading further south, visitors will come across Markkleeberg Park, a nature reserve with an astonishing variety of flora and fauna. The nearby Auenwald contains several rivers (Pleiße, Elster and Luppe) and provides a perfect spot to relax.

The East:

The eastern part of the city is home to the Bayrische Bahnhof, the world's oldest railway terminal which opened in 1844 to serve the line between Bavaria and Saxony.

Leipzig is also famous as being home to some of the world's largest and most prestigious publishers. Although the old publishers' quarter was destroyed during the Second World War, certain street names (such as Reclamstraße, Inselstraße and Baedekerstraße) still bare witness to the district's literary roots. The Messehaus Bugra, an important centre of the German book trade, can also be found here.

Heading a bit further east, visitors will come across the lovely Botanical Gardens , which has been growing countless varieties of orchids, palms and other exotic plants since 1542.

The North:

The Schillerhaus is a small, half-timbered farmhouse located in the district of Gohlis, and was home to the writer Friedrich Schiller in 1785. This is the place where Schiller wrote his legendary Ode to Joy as well as parts of Don Carlos. The house has now been turned into a museum. Gohliser Schlößchen, a magnificent baroque and rococo palace, is a great place to enjoy a touch of chamber music or to savour a bit of fine Saxon cuisine.

The Brodyer Synagogue was founded in 1904 and was the only one of Leipzig's synagogues to survive the Nazi purges on Kristallnacht in 1938. It was reopened on 22 May 1993.

Visitors can admire the lions, hyenas and Siberian tigers in Leipzig Zoo , one of Germany's oldest zoos (1877). Those who want to avoid paying the entrance fee could wander along the Rosenthal at the back of the zoo and take a look in through the large pane glass windows.

The West:

As well as containing dozens of business parks and factories, the districts of Plagwitz and Lindenau also contain the Sportstadion, Germany's largest open-air stadium, and the Sport Museum—a fantastic sports exhibition with a particular focus on gymnastics. Visitors could also take a relaxing walk through Clara Zetkin Park, full of beautiful flower beds, fish-ponds and lawns. Just a stone's throw away from the park is the Scheibenholz race-track, where many a fortune has been won and lost.