Heidelberg, Germany

The dining and drinking opportunities in Heidelberg reflect the unique situation of this beautifully historical city, tucked into the Neckar River valley. As one of Germany's historically important cultural centers, with the oldest and most Nobel-prize studded German university, and with well-preserved traditional German architecture, the city exerts a powerful force on those who want to explore the Germany of old. The millions of visitors who come from around the world to discover this interesting past are greeted with a great variety of traditional German pubs and restaurants, which offer local and regional specialties in authentic settings. The massive influx of international visitors, however, leaves its mark, and so perhaps more than any other city its size in Germany, Heidelberg offers visitors (and locals) lots of international dining opportunities.

Altstadt (Old Town)

The blocks around the Hauptstraße and in the old city have the greatest concentration of cafes, restaurants and pubs. If you are on the hunt for traditional German food, have no fear: some of the old city restaurants seem to be in informal competition to provide the heartiest and meatiest fare. First, there are the three golds: Zum Goldenen Schaf , some 250 years old; Gasthaus Goldener Hecht , where Goethe ate; and Goldener Anker , occupying a house built in the early 1700s. You also won't be able to avoid noticing Zum Ritter St. Georg , whose well-known facade looks out on the Holy Ghost Church. Another popular spot that specializes in serving up traditional food is the Brauhaus Vetter , which brews its own beer on location. Most restaurants offer a selection of German beers, a few brew their own right on the premises (the Kulturbrauerei Brauhaus is an especially good choice for that), and Zum Weißen Schwan , which offers 101 beers, even advertises itself as a beer museum. In addition to these and other larger and older locations, there are numerous smaller establishments characterized by wood and plaster interiors and menus heavy with traditional meat and potato or noodle dishes. Visitors should be aware, however, that German cuisine can also reach the delicately sublime, as those who treat themselves to a meal at Kurfürstenstube and Die Hirschgasse certainly know. These two elegant establishments offer contemporary German cuisine that is neither average nor easily forgotten. Vegetarians and budget travelers in particular should note that international restaurants, particularly Asian and Middle Eastern, are often the best bets.

Most places have at least a couple of tables outside, and expect most public squares (and both the Uniplatz and the Marktplatz in the old city) to have lots of pleasant outdoor seating when the weather is nice. International guests will be pleased with the selection of newspapers at the Cafe Journal , and day and night the streets between the Holy Ghost Church and the Alte Brücke are popular places for coffee and conversation - in several international languages, of course.

Weststadt & Bergheim

Even though most restaurants are concentrated in the Old Town, there are several restaurants in other parts of the city that shouldn't be missed. Traveling west of the city center, you reach Weststadt and Bergheim, where you get a more rural feel of Heidelberg. However the cuisine is still as international as in Old Town. Try Cafe Cactus for a bit of Mexican flair. If you don't want to miss out on German cuisine but find it overall too hearty, Krokodil is definitely an option for you. Regional and international dishes are served in a more contemporary fashion. Thanner offers brilliant breakfast buffets, whereas Billy Blues im Ziegler serves Cajun and Californian cuisine, as well as Tex Mex delicacies.

Wine Regions

As refreshing as the beer is, locals know that as great as beer may be, it can't beat the wines that the Heidelberg region is known for. The city is located in the Baden wine-growing region, which produces many dry wines of high quality and is the origin of many of Germany's best Spätburgunders. Just to the north is the tiny Hessiche Bergstraße, which produces mostly Rieslings, and whose vintages are a real treat to find given their rarity. West lies the Pfalz, where world-class dry white wines can be found, especially Rieslings, Scheurebe, Weiss- and Grauburgunders. Look for such estates as Bürklin-Wolf, Bassermann-Jordan, and von Buhl. Lastly, Württemberg lies to the east, where, in recent years, several red wines have earned it distinction. Whatever is in the glass, if it originated in the region surrounding Heidelberg, you can be sure it is a quality wine.

If one measures the area, Heidelberg certainly does not rate as one of the bigger cities in the world. The Old Town, at less than two kilometers (one and a quarter mile) in size, is pretty small and for this reason it is ideal to discover the town on foot. Suitable shoes are, however, a good idea, as cobble-stone pavements don't do much for a flashy pair of heels! The most famous of Heidelberg's attractions will be the starting point of our tour: the ruin of the Heidelberg castle. It is accessible via the Bergbahn (mountain train, a cog-wheel train) that departs at the parking garage Kornmarkt or on two foot paths that lead from the left side of the parking garage to the castle. The old Castle road on the left leads on cobble-stones directly into the castle; the one branching off to the right heads on steep stairs over the Kurze Buckel (the short hump) to the main entrance and into the castle gardens.

Heidelberg Castle

The best point from which to start your discovery is the Schlossgarten . The terraces with fountains and waterworks still stem from Baroque times. Between the old trees you will gain a first magnificent impression of the mighty and time-honored walls. From here you will have the best view of the exploded Herb Tower . Through the Gate Tower at the south end of the castle you enter the Courtyard, where you will witness the peculiarity and the magic of the castle in all its wealth. The single buildings are examples of the most differing historical building styles, nothing seems to belong together, and it seems almost as if a child has taken blocks from and oversized building set and aimlessly assembled them at random. The plain Ladies Building stands beside Frederick's Palace with its richly decorated facade. The splendid, but roofless Ottheinrich's Palace , on the other hand, doesn't seem to match the austere Ludwigsbau or the unadorned Ruprechtsbau at all. It is worth pausing to take in the fantastic scenery and to see at least one if not both buildings from the inside. A main attraction is without doubt the Great Barrell , but it is worth visiting the inside as part of a Castle Tour or to see the Apothecaries' Museum . Between Frederick's Palace and the Hall-of-Mirrors Building leads a small passage way to the Belvedere (Great terrace) that offers an unrivaled, beautiful view over Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley far into the Rhine plain and the Palatinate Forest. Underneath the Belvedere the cobble-stone Castle Road leads back into the Old town. Those who are not keen walkers can effortlessly return to the Kornmarkt on the mountain railway.

Old Town

The most famous sight at the Kornmarkt is that of the Madonna . With the castle in the background it is very popular photo opportunity. From the Kornmarkt you will reach the market place after only a few meters. Some items of great significance stand on this site. The Marktplatz is dominated by the Holy Ghost Church, those who take it upon themselves to climb up are justly rewarded with a magnificent view of the rooftops of the Old town. Opposite the Church is the Town hall and in the row of the houses you will find the remarkably beautiful facade of the hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg and of the former Court Dispensary (No. 190). On the market place there is also a large choice of cafes and snack bars that are perfect for a small meal before you continue to explore the town.

From the market place, the Hauptstraße leads west to the Bismarckplatz. You could also continue the tour via the Untere Straße that branches off northwest of the Holy Ghost Church, by the Cafe Knösel with the well-known Students' kisses. Most roads, apart from the Hauptstraße, are less crowded and offer a profound and enchanting impression of Heidelberg. The Hauptstraße , the main street, extends over a distance of 1.6 km and runs from the Karlstor on the east side along the Marktplatz to the west end at the Bismarckplatz. Many narrowly angled and romantic roads with charming little houses branch off, some have only a width of 3.5 metres. The eastern part underneath the castle has a certain historical and romantic flair; the university is situated in the central part with its different buildings and the west part of the Hauptstraße is dominated by shops.

Philosphers' Road

The philosophers' road stretches along the southern side of the Heiligenberg and between small gardens and the woods you can enjoy a beautiful view of the Old town and the castle that is really quite picturesque. Semi-exotic plants like broom, lemon trees, pomegranates, yucca and pine trees that grow here due to the mild climate. The road was named in the last centuries when presumably scholars of the university used to walk here. The first look-out point shows the Philosophers' Garden, a peaceful place with flower-beds and benches in which to linger and contemplate. On the east side of this garden is the Joseph von Eichendorff memorial stone reminds us of this romantic poet who studied in Heidelberg in circa 1807. Above the garden the philosophers' road branches into the upper and the lower road. However, we will follow the lower one that does not ascend any further. The next memorial stone is the Liselottestein, dedicated to the daughter of Karl Ludwig who was married to the Sun kings brother, a marriage that in 1685 unleashed the disastrous Palatine War of Succession leading to the destruction of the castle.

A few steps further on, you come across the Merianblick (Merian's view): here stands a large-scale illustration of the copperplate engraving that was created in 1620 by Matthäus Merian and that shows the Heidelberg of the day. To compare this picture of Heidelberg with today's view is really fascinating. Some hundred meters further, you will find a small park that is designed in honor of the poet Friedrich Hölderlin.

Before this park the Schlangenweg (serpent's path) branches off down to the valley. Between walls and with numerous bends and curves you follow the cobble-stone path to the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge) . An alternative route is to follow the philosophers' road further up and find your way back to the Neckar via the Hirschgasse. At the Neckar you turn to the right and walk back to the Old Bridge. On the right of the street you can see a row of magnificent villas that were built in the last century.