USSEL , 90km west of Clermont-Ferrand and 60km northeast of Tulle, is where the land begins its gradual descent to the uppermost reaches of the Dordogne valley, thickly wooded and cut by deep tributary valleys. It's not a place with much to see, though the town is pleasant enough, with some attractive sixteenth- and seventeenth-century houses scattered about the central part, while a giant battered granite eagle on the place Voltaire stands as the sole reminder of a Roman settlement hereabouts. One building worth a look is the house of the local lords, the Maison du Ducs de Ventadour , who moved here from their … more »

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