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The old centre of COLMAR , a fifty-minute train ride south of Strasbourg, is typically and whimsically Alsatian, with crooked houses, half-timbered and painted, on crooked lanes – all extremely pretty, and very touristy. The modern city, however, has sprawled unattractively on both sides of the train tracks. Colmar's attractions don't stop at its buildings; it is also the proud possessor of one of the last and most extraordinary of all Gothic paintings – the altarpiece for St Anthony's monastery at Issenheim, painted by Mathias Grünewald. more »

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