In spite of its industrial activities, CASTRES , 40km south of Albi, has kept a lot of its charm, in the streets on the right bank of the Agout and, in particular, the riverside quarter where the old tanners' and weavers' houses overhang the water. The centre is a bustling, businesslike sort of place, with a big morning market on Saturdays on place Jean-Jaurès. By the rather unremarkable old cathedral, the former bishop's palace holds the Hôtel de Ville and Castres' Musée Goya (July & Aug daily 9amnoon & 26pm; SeptJune closed Mon; €3), which is … more »