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A pretty old town of narrow lanes and unexpected open squares, AUXERRE stands on a hill a further 15km up the Yonne from Joigny. It looks its best from Pont Paul-Bert and the riverside quais , where houseboats and barges moor, its churches soaring dramatically and harmoniously above the surrounding rooftops. The most interesting of the churches is the disused abbey church of St Germain , now a museum (daily except Tues: June–Sept 10am–6.30pm; Oct–May 10am–noon & 2–6pm; €5.60), at the opposite end of rue Cauchois from the cathedral. Partial demolition has left its belfry … more »

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