Twenty kilometres upstream of Tours, AMBOISE is a prim little riverside town trading on long-gone splendours, notably its impressive but disappointingly empty château and Leonardo da Vinci's peaceful residence of Clos-Lucé, with its exhibition of the great man's inventions. The one concession to modern art in Amboise is a twentieth-century fountain by Max Ernst of a turtle topped by a teddy bear figure, standing in front of the spot where the market takes place every Saturday and Sunday morning by the riverside. Behind, rising above the river, are the remains of the château (daily: … more »

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