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Sleepy MUONIO lies 60km northwest of Sirkka beside the murky river that separates Finland from Sweden. What passes for the town centre falls beside the junction of the E8, the main north– south highway, and Route 79 from Kittilä; the Esso filling station at the crossroads here functions as the bus station. There's a 55 percent chance of seeing the northern lights in the winter here, though it must be a clear night. For accommodation, head for the superbly located year-round hostelALomamaja Pekonen (Tel:016/532 237, Web: www.lomamajapekonen.fi ; Price: 26-50), on a small hilly site overlooking a lake at Lahenrannantie 10. They also have simple, well-equipped cabins ( 60); the ones at the top of the hill have their own saunas ( 65). Canoes can also be hired here for 21 per day. For snacks, the woodsy Naapuro, Kosotuskeino 1, has fresh cakes, coffee and beer, while solid meals can be found next door at AUncle Laban, run by a friendly Palestinian family who dish up pizza and reindeer dishes for around 10.
Some 3km south along the road to Kolari lies the well-organized and well-equipped Harriniva Holiday Centre (Tel:016/530 0300, Web: www.harriniva.fi ), where you can pitch a tent, hook up your campervan or stay in a range of accommodation that runs from basic cabins ( 90) to fully equipped apartments ( 140). However, what makes this place special is the range of summer and winter activities on offer. A haven for dog lovers, Harriniva has around four hundred huskies – making it the biggest husky centre in Finland – and if you're here in winter and thinking of a husky safari, this is the place to do it. Other winter activities include a week-long snowmobile safari ( 2370), a four-hour reindeer safari ( 150), and a dog-sledge day-trip ( 260). In summer, the centre offers such things as whitewater rafting ( 28; 1hr 30min), salmon fishing, quad bike excursions to a reindeer farm ( 165) and canoe trips ( 60).