Viborg, Denmark

For many years VIBORG was one of the most important communities in the country, at the junction of all the major roads across Jutland. From Knud in 1027 to Christian V in 1655, every Danish king was crowned here; Hans Tausen's Lutheran preaching began in Viborg in 1528, eight years before Denmark's official conversion from Catholicism; and until the early nineteenth century the town was the seat of a provincial assembly. As the national administrative axis shifted towards Zealand, however, Viborg's importance waned, and although it's still home to the high court of West Denmark, it's now primarily a market town.

All Viborg's hotels are fairly pricey – best bet is the handsome Palads, Skt Mathias Gade 5 (Tel:86 62 37 00, Web: www.hotelpalads.dk ; Price: Kr650-900); if a lake view appeals, try the even more expensive Golf Hotel Viborg, Randersvej 2 (Tel:86 61 02 22, Web: www.golf-hotel-viborg.dk ; Price: Kr650-900/Price: Kr900 and above). Also close to the lake, but on the opposite side to the town centre (a 2km walk or local bus #707), is the Viborg Vandrerhjemyouth hostel, Vinkelvej 36 (Tel:86 67 17 81, Web: www.danhostel.dk/viborg /

Plenty of reasonably priced eating places can also be found along Skt Mathias Gade; try the popular Jens Messing at no. 48 (closed Sun), which offers simple meals starting at 55kr. Café Morville, Hjultorvet 2, is a fancy French/Italian inspired café-restaurant with DJ's enhancing the mood at night. Choices range between a cup of coffee or cool beer to mouthwatering steaks with new potatoes and veg (169kr). A little further out, Medborgerhuset, Vesterbrogade 13, serves a 45kr dagens ret (daily special, including a vegetarian option) from noon to 8pm on weekdays (Fri until 5pm), as well as smrrebrd, sandwiches and inexpensive coffee and cakes. The cellar restaurant ABrygger Bauers Grotter, Skt Mathias Gade 61 (Tel:86 61 44 88, closed Sun), is a atmospheric spot for a candlelit dinner, although you'll find lower prices and a livelier atmosphere at the Mexican restaurant Tortilla Flats on Skt Mikkelsgade 2 (closed Mon). For quality steak, try the small and expensive Den Gyldne Okse (Tel:86 62 27 44) on Store Skt Peder Stræde 11, with meals from around 100kr.