The tiny sugar town of PILÓN , 175km west from Santiago de Cuba, is a step back in time, with open-backed carts laden with sugarcane zigzagging across the roads and the smell of boiling molasses enveloping the town. There's little to do, but the two beaches, Playa Media Luna , with beautiful views over the Sierra Maestra and a rocky coastline good for snorkelling, and the narrow white-sand Playa Punta , are refreshingly different from those at the smart resorts. The small but engaging Casa Museo Ceila Sánchez Manduley (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–1pm; US$1), erstwhile home of … more »

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