A bustling town of around 100,000 people, ZADAR boasts a compact historic centre crowded onto a tapered peninsula jutting northwest into the Adriatic. It displays a pleasant muddle of architectural styles, with Romanesque churches competing for space with café-bars. Near the northwestern end of the peninsula, Zadar's main square or Forum is dominated by the ninth-century St Donat's Church (summer only: daily 9am–10pm; 5kn), a hulking cylinder of stone built – according to tradition – by St Donat himself, an Irishman who was bishop here for a time. The cavernous, bare … more »

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