Once the chief port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, PULA is an engaging combination of working port, naval base and brash riviera town. The Romans put the city squarely on the map when they arrived in 177 BC, transforming it into an important commercial centre. The most obvious relic of their rule is the first century BC Amphitheatre (daily: June–Sept 8am–8pm; Oct–May 9am–5pm; 30kn) just north of the centre, a great grey elliptical skein of connecting arches, silhouetted against the skyline from wherever you stand in the city. It's the sixth largest in the world, and once had space … more »

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