Opatija, Croatia

Fifteen kilometres out of Rijeka on the main coastal road to Pula lies Opatija, the longest established of the gulf's resorts. It's a town in the best tradition of seaside magnificence, pretty in an overpowering Austro-Hungarian sort of way, a monument both to genteel early twentieth-century tourism and to its subsequent decline. Opatija continues to be patronized by central Europeans of a certain age, and even in the height of summer there are times when you can stroll the length of the seafront without bumping into anyone under 40. At the weekend, however, Opatija's proximity to Rijeka (and, by extension, Zagreb) ensures a regular influx of day-trippers of all ages, when the shoreline promenade becomes jammed with strollers. Thanks to the big-spending habits of middle-class Croats, top-quality seafood restaurants have taken off in a big way in Opatija, turning the town into a major target for gastro-pilgrims.