Pointe-Noire, Congo

The first settlement north of La Traversée, quiet POINTE-NOIRE owes its name to the dark volcanic highlands that encircle and shade its tangled streets. Some rays filter through to Plage Caraïbe, a laid-back beach of golden-brown sand just south of town where dive outfit Anse Caraïbe Plongée (Mon– Fri 9am–3.30pm, 4.30pm–6pm; Tel:0590/99 90 95) rents snorkelling gear and organizes outings to the depths around Îlets Pigeon twice every weekday. Grab a bite on the beach at Délice Caraïbes, which whips up € 15 menus of fricassee de lambis and colombo poulet (closed Wed).

The area is renowned for its Arabica coffee beans, which perfume the grounds of the magnificently restored Caféière Beauséjour (Tues– Sun 10am–5pm, closed mid-Sept– mid-Oct; Web: www.cafeierebeausejour.com ; € 6), a plantation house and café high on a hill with stunning views. Also in the area is the homespun Maison du Cacao (Mon– Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm; € 5), an eco-museum that traces the path from cacao tree to chocolate. Admission includes a cup of hot chocolate made from pure cacao. Opposite is the hospitable Kaz la Traversée (Tel:0590/98 21 23, Web: www.kazlatraversee.com ; US$31-70), which has several fan-only bungalows with kitchenettes and access to a pebble beach. Ponti-Néris are adept carpenters; you can check out the tools of their trade and exquisite mahogany furnishings at the Maison du Bois (Tues– Sun 9.30am–5pm; closed Sept; € 9).