Sichuan's relaxed provincial capital, CHENGDU, is a characterful place to spend a few days, perhaps as a base for visiting Qing-dynasty Huanglongxi or the irrigation system at Dujiangyan, or while organizing a flight or train to Tibet. Aside from touring the remaining historical monuments, you can spike your taste buds on one of China's most outstanding cuisines, not to mention getting close-up views of locally bred pandas.
Chengdu is a determinedly modern city, full of high-rise department stores, residential blocks and traffic – the congestion and pollution can be atrocious – but it's also a cheerful place: seasonal floral displays and ubiquitous ginkgo trees lend colour to its many excellent parks and the riverbanks have been landscaped with willows, lawns and wavy paths. The population is also nicely laid-back, enjoying its teahouse culture at every opportunity and unfazed by this being interpreted as laziness by other Chinese.
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