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For centuries, life in ST JOHN'S has focused on the harbour. In its heyday it was crammed with ships from a score of nations, but today – although its population is about 105,000 – it's a shadow of its former self, with just the odd oil tanker or trawler creeping through the 200-metre-wide channel of The Narrows into the jaw-shaped inlet. Once a rumbustious port, it's become a far more subdued place, the rough houses of the waterfront mostly replaced by shops and offices, its economy dominated by white-collar workers who are concentrated in a string of downtown skyscrapers and in the … more »

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