Moncton, New Brunswick

MONCTON, some 80km from Alma, was named after Colonel Robert Monckton [sic], though the Acadians had originally called the place Le Coude ("the elbow"), which at least hinted at its setting on a sharp bend of the Petitcodiac River. Indeed, the river provides Moncton with its most singular attraction, the tidal bore, which sweeps up from the Bay of Fundy, 35km downstream. Otherwise, Moncton is a minor commercial centre and major transport junction surrounded by marshy flatlands. This may sound unpromising, but the downtown area has recently been spruced up and there are now enough good restaurants, bars and hotels to make an overnight stay enjoyable, and the town is a convenient stop on the journey between Fundy National Park and PEI via the Confederation Bridge.

The most lavish accommodation is at the Delta Beauséjour, 750 Main St (Tel:506/854-4344 or 1-800/268-1133, Web: www.deltahotels.com ; Price: $126-175), a big modern high-rise right in the middle of town. However, the motel-style rooms of the much more modest Rodd Parkhouse Inn, beside Tidal Bore Park at 434 Main St (Tel:506/382-1664 or 1-800/565-7633, Web: www.rodd-hotels.ca ; Price: $81-100), are both much less expensive and perfectly adequate if rather routine. Alternatively, several pleasant B&Bs are dotted amongst the leafy residential avenues to the north of Main Street. The pick of the bunch is the four-room Bonaccord House B&B, 250 Bonaccord St (Tel:506/388-1535, Web: www.bbcanada.com/4135.html ; Price: $41-60), north of the bus station in an attractive Victorian villa with picket fence and portico.

For food, Le Château à Pape, 2 Steadman St (Tel:506/855-7273), serves the finest of Acadian cuisine from its premises in a big old house a couple of minutes' walk west along the river bank from Tidal Bore Park; mains start at $18. Less expensive places include Jean's Diner, 369 St George St, about three blocks north of Main St, which is worth a trip for its clams not to mention its 1950s booths, and Graffiti, 897 Main St (Tel:506/382-4299), which specializes in moderately priced Greek food.

Bars throng the centre – try the popular Pump House Brewpub, at 7 Orange Lane, just off Main Street a few metres east of City Hall. Kramer's Corner, 700 Main St (Tel:506/857-9118), is a combined restaurant and bar with a massive outdoor patio and regular live music, mostly jazz.