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Back along Hwy 19 beyond Buckley Bay is a short stretch of wild, pebbly beach, and then the Comox Valley, open rural country that's not as captivating as the brochures might lead you to expect. Of three settlements here – Comox, Cumberland and COURTENAY – only the last is of real interest for all but the most committed Vancouver Island devotee, and only then as a ferry link to Powell River on the mainland. The terminal is a good twenty-minutes' drive from the town down back roads – hitching is almost impossible, so you have to take a taxi or hold out for the minibus shuttle that leaves the bus depot … more »

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