SIEM REAP (pronounced See-um Ree-up) is Cambodia's most touristy town, and has sacrificed some of its charm and authenticity as a result. However, Western luxuries are freely available, there are plenty of English-speaking locals and the selection of bars and restaurants seems infinite. By day, despite a new hotel seemingly under construction on every corner, it remains sleepy and traditional. From late afternoon, though, weary travellers descend on the restaurants and bars in the colonial area around Psar Chas, and by mid-evening a party atmosphere pervades.
You're unlikely to want for anything in Siem Reap, and plenty of visitors hang around much longer than they originally intended. The town offers the best selection of accommodation outside the capital, as well as an abundance of restaurants specializing in all manner of cuisine; at a handful of places you can also watch a fascinating Khmer cultural performance while you dine. There are plenty of opportunities to shop too, as the town has plenty of quality galleries, craft shops and souvenir stalls. Car and moto hire is straightforward, and if you don't feel like arranging it yourself, one of any number of tour companies will do it for you, collecting you at your door for sunrise and returning you after sunset.
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