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Back in the days when VARNA was a cholera-ravaged Ottoman garrison town, British troops passed through on their way to the Crimean War; one of them, Major General J R Hume, described the town as "no paradise … a wretched place with very few shops". Not so long ago many foreign visitors may have said the same, but in recent years Bulgaria's third city has struggled more than most to Westernize. Signs of change are everywhere, from the giant advertising hoardings splashed with Western brand names to the numerous street traders, hawking all kinds of touristry knick-knacks. The streets are lined … more »

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