Mangaratiba, Brazil

Muddy beaches and the incongruous industrial presence of the nearby Terminal de Sepetiba put off many people stopping at MANGARATIBA , which lies 25km west of Itacuruçá along the BR-101. Even so, the town's immediate setting is attractive, with a mountain backdrop, a beautiful bay in front with fishing boats at anchor and a late eighteenth-century church dominating the main square.

Five buses a day run from Rio to Mangaratiba – at 5.30am, 9am, 12.30pm, 3pm and 6.45pm – and if you catch the earliest bus, you'll make the daily ferry that sails from Mangaratiba to Ilha Grande. Nevertheless, if you do need to stay, there are a couple of hotels in town, such as the very basic Rio Branco on the main square (R$71-120) and the air-conditioned Pensão do Almir on the road leading to the hospital (R$121-180). If you head from the main square along the seashore, you'll find several good fish restaurants .