Velden, Austria

Hugging the bay at the western end of the lake, brash and bustling VELDEN is another place where sybaritic youth mingle with strolling pensioners and sightseeing coach parties. Most visitors gravitate at some stage towards the central Europaplatz, where Velden's casino provides the fulcrum of the town's social life. The casino was opened in 1989, its spire-like protrusions making it something of a landmark. From Europaplatz, Am Corso leads south towards the transport hub of Karawankenplatz, from where Seecorso leads round the lake. Overlooking Seecorso is the Schloss, a distinctive egg-yolk-coloured structure which is close to the hearts of many Austrians and Germans, having served as the backdrop to a popular 1990s television series, Schloss am Wörthersee. Built for leading Carinthian magnate Bartholomäus von Khevenhüller in 1590, it is now a luxury hotel.

From Velden's train station, walk downhill along Bahnhofstrasse, turn right into Klagenfurterstrasse and keep going to reach the central ribbon of Europaplatz, Am Corso and Karawankenplatz. Buses from Klagenfurt and Villach pick up and drop off at Villacherstrasse, a five-minute walk west of Karawankenplatz.

The nearest campsite is the Weisses Rössl at Auen, accessible on Velden– Maria Wörth– Klagenfurt buses. The Cap Wörthhostel, 3km southeast of the centre at Seecorso 37–39 (Tel:04274/2646, ecapwoerth@woerthersee.com; € 25 per person) offers a mixed bag of doubles, triples and five-bed dorms, own stretch of lakefront and a small indoor pool, although it soon fills up in season. Among the best of the local pensions are Gästehaus Teppan, Sternbergstr 7 (Easter– Sept; Tel:04274/3169, Web: www.pension-teppan.at ; Price: € 46–60), a trad-style house with small balconied rooms just uphill from Villacherstrasse, the main road westwards out of town, and the Frühstückspension Urania at Mühlweg 2 (April– Oct; Tel:04274/2696; Price: € 61–75), a residential street southwest of the centre and only minutes from the lake. One of the nicest hotels on the lakefront is Seehaus Ogris, Seecorso 34 (May– Oct; Tel:04274/2079, Web: www.ogris-velden.at ; Price: € 76–90), a well-run family hotel with en-suite facilites, TVs, sun balcony and own Strandbad across the street. Moving up slightly in price, the characterful Mösslacherhaus, Karawankenplatz 1 (Tel:04274/2020; Price: € 111–130), is a delightful cross between central European villa and English country house, offering rooms with en-suite facilities and TV, and use of a private Strandbad a few steps away. If money is no object, then Schloss Velden, Schlosspark 1 (Tel:04274/52000, Web: www.schlossveldencapella.com ; Price: € 151 and above) offers ornate, high-ceilinged doubles in the Schloss itself, or smart modern suites in the contemporary annex to the rear. The hotel spa centre is the place to pamper yourself with beauty treatments, saunas and steam baths.

Good, cheap Austrian food is thin on the ground in Velden, but there's a growing range of ethnic restaurants to fill the gap. Among the most popular are Fallaloon, Am Corso 2a, a passable Chinese restaurant with a large, reasonably priced menu and outdoor seating in a big courtyard, and Pizzeria da Leopoldo, Seecorso 18, a chic place that stays open beyond midnight. For good-quality Austrian fare and the best in Carinthian Nud'l dishes try the trad-style Gasthof Alte Post, Europaplatz 4–6. Seespitz, Schlosspark, is a chic timber and glass pavilion on the lakefront that serves upmarket Austrian standards alongside steaks and fish, with mains clocking in at € 25.

Most drinking revolves around Europaplatz, where the outdoor tables of the Casino's own café vie for custom with a string of near-neighbours: the American Bar (also known as Schinakel), Am Corso 10, is a society hangout of long standing that never goes out of fashion; while the cosy and intimate Stamperl, Am Corso 8, pulls in its fair share of local celebrities in season. The Do & Ga Stehbar, a little further west underneath the Volksbank, is a brasher, more youthful bar with regular live bands, while Monkey Circus, on the corner of Klagenfurterstrasse and Bahnhofstrasse, has Mexican beers alongside ribs- and wings-style nibbles. Le Cabaret, in the casino building, is the place to find mainstream club music and a dance-till-dawn crowd. If you fancy trying your luck in the Casino itself, it is open from 3pm until the early hours and dress requirements are smart casual.