Coming into WARRNAMBOOL on the Great Ocean Road you see the city's more pleasant aspects: its lovely coastal setting, with Allansford Cheeseworld (Mon– Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 8.30am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm; Web:
www.cheeseworld.com.au
) indicating that this is the centre of rich dairy country. As well as selling cheese, it has tastings, a café serving teas and light meals, and a local history museum. However, if you approach Warrnambool from the northeast along the Princes Highway, you'll pass car lots, motels and an ugly factory belching smoke.