Port Campbell, Australia

PORT CAMPBELL is a small settlement on the edge of the Port Campbell National Park, and the main base for those visiting the Twelve Apostles. The Port Campbell Visitor Centre on Morris Street (daily 9am–5pm; Tel:03/5598 6089, Web: www.visit12apostles.com ) has displays and information about the area and its national parks, and can also book accommodation. Ask here too about the Port Campbell Discovery Walk (90min), which will take you along a clifftop to a viewpoint above Two Mile Bay.

Port Campbell beach is a small sandy curve, safe for swimming and patrolled in season – the town climbs the hill behind the beach.

If you're really fascinated by shipwrecks, Port Campbell Boat Charters, at the Mobil Petrol Station at 32 Lord St (Tel:03/5598 6379), offers diving to some wreck sites, fishing trips and can rent out snorkelling or diving gear to those who want to go it alone.

The town itself is a pleasant place to while away an evening, and with two hostels in town, accommodation needn't be expensive. In summer and for long weekends, however, it's advisable to book far ahead. The Port Campbell Hostel (Tel:03/5598 6305, Web: www.portcambellhostel.com.au ; dorms $25, rooms and cabins Price: $61-75) on Tregea Street is a pleasant, well-run place with a good kitchen, a spacious common room and TV lounge, internet access, bright dorms, double/twin rooms and two cabins. In comparison, OceanHouse Backpackers (Tel:03/5598 6223, Web: www.portcampbell.nu/oceanhouse ; dorm beds from $30) may have a great location facing the water on Lord Street but the old house is rather dark and somewhat cramped. This hostel is operated by the pleasant Port Campbell National Park Cabin & Camping Park on Morris Street (Tel:03/5598 6492, Web: http://portcampbellcabincampingpark.street-directory.com.au ); small groups are possibly better off booking into one of their beachside cabins (Price: $101-130). The Loch Ard Motor Inn (Tel:03/5598 6328, Web: www.loachardmotorinn.com.au ; Price: $101–200) is in a prime position opposite the beach, and most of their simple yet comfortable rooms have personal patios facing the water. Rooms also have wireless internet. Moving more upmarket, the Sea Foam Villas (Tel:03/5598 6413, Web: www.seafoamvillas.com ; Price: $101-130) at 14 Lord St are well equipped with private balconies with sea views.

Port Campbell has plenty of places to eat, all close to each other on Lord Street. For regular Aussie fare or a late-night drink (they close when the last person leaves), go to the good-quality bistro at the Port Campbell Hotel (daily lunch and dinner). The simply titled Take-Away opposite the foreshore is a favourite with surfers needing their fish-and-chip fix, while the recently opened 20aterestaurant (daily dinner), at no. 28, serves well-priced steak, fish and pasta dishes and has a pleasant front terrace with a fountain. Across the road is Waves (8am–9.30pm daily; mains from $18.50; booking advised on Tel:03/5598 6111), considered the best place in town serving reliably good breakfasts, lunch and dinner.

Port Campbell's expensive general store (daily: winter 8am–6pm; summer 7.30am–9pm) also has a bottle shop and an EFTPOS system that takes every type of card; it also functions as the post office and newsagent.