Montpelier, Vermont

Montpelier is the smallest state capital in the nation, with fewer than ten thousand inhabitants. Surrounded by leafy gardens, the golden domed State House (Mon– Fri 7.45am–4.15pm) is well worth a free tour for its marble-floored and mural-lined hallways (July to mid-Oct Mon– Fri 10am–3.30pm, Sat 11am–2.30pm; Tel:802/828-2228). Copious information on accommodation, here and throughout the state, is available from the Capitol Region Visitors Center, opposite the State House at 134 State St (Mon– Fri 6am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; Tel:802/828-5981 or 1-800/VERMONT, Web: www.vermontvacation.com ). Good B&B rooms can be had at the central yet quiet Betsy's Bed & Breakfast, 74 E State St (Tel:802/229-0466, Web: www.betsysbnb.com ; Price: $131-160). For more luxurious digs, try the Capitol Plaza Hotel, 100 State St (Tel:802/223-5252, Web: www.capitolplaza.com ; Price: $201-250).

For food, students from the local New England Culinary Institute run the Main St Grill & Bar at 118 Main St (closed Mon; Tel:802/223-3188), serving excellent, inexpensive, experimental dishes from all over the world. Coffee Corner, on Main Street at State (Tel:802/229-9060), has been serving dirt-cheap diner food for over sixty years, while Capitol Grounds, 45 State St (Tel:802/223-7800), is definitely tops for your morning coffee or tea fix.

There are several options for live music; Langdon Street Café, 4 Langdon St (Tel:802/223-8667, Web: www.langdonstreetcafe.com ), has a homey feel, with live music nightly and beer, wine, and coffee, while Black Door Bar, 44 Main St (closed Sun; Tel:802/223-7070, Web: www.blackdoorvt.com ), is a bit fancier, with jazz or zydeco ($3 cover).