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Centering on a neat courthouse square, HOLLY SPRINGS is a time-warped little town that's said to have changed hands 62 times during the Civil War; the minutiae of its otherwise uneventful history fill three splendidly eclectic floors in the local museum at 220 E College Ave (Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–2pm; $3). Were it not for Graceland Too , 200 E Gholson Ave (open 24hrs year-round; $5), however, Holly Springs would today be of little note. The home of Paul McLeod and his son, Elvis Aaron Presley McLeod, this shrine to the King is a quite remarkable labor of love. Walls, ceiling and stairwells … more »

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