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Seen from a short distance offshore, LAHAINA is one of the prettiest towns in all Hawaii, still recognizable as the peaceful, tropical village it used to be. Its main oceanfront street is lined with timber-frame buildings; a tall-masted sailing ship bobs in the harbor; coconut palms sway to either side of the central banyan tree; surfers swirl into the thin fringe of beach to the south; and the mountains of West Maui dominate the skyline, ringed as often as not by beautiful rainbows. Up close, however, many of Lahaina's decrepit-looking structures turn out to be mere fakes, housing T-shirt stores and tacky … more »

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