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Until recently, windward Hawaii's major city, HILO , was the economic and political powerhouse of the island. It's still the capital, and home to 45,000 people, but as the sugar mills close and the significance of Kona-side tourism increases, it now feels more like a rather traditional small town. As a place to visit, it's relaxed and attractive, spread over a surprisingly large area but with an appealingly old-fashioned downtown district where you can stroll between friendly cafés, street markets and historic sites. In the early 1970s, Hilo made a bid to become a major tourist center, but … more »

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