Introduction to Kiama, NSW

Of the coastal resorts south of Sydney, KIAMA is probably the most attractive – though if you want more than a day- or overnight trip to the beach, you'd be better off continuing down to Nowra and beyond. A large resort and fishing town, Kiama is famous for its star attraction, the Blowhole, a five-minute walk from the railway station on Blowhole Point. Stemming from a natural fault in the cliffs, the blowhole explodes into a waterspout when a wave hits with sufficient force. It's impressive, but also potentially dangerous: freak waves can be thrown over 60m into the air and have swept several over-curious bystanders into the raging sea – so stand well back. The Kiama Visitor Information Centre, nearby on Blowhole Point Road (daily 9am–5pm; tel 02/4232 3322 or 1800 803 897, www.kiama.com.au), supplies details of other local attractions such as Cathedral Rocks, a few kilometres to the north, whose rocky outcrops drop abruptly to the ocean. About 15km south of Kiama is Seven Mile Beach, a stunning sweep of sandy beach with its own small oceanfront national park which includes a camping ground at its northern end, with toilets and cold showers (bookings Nowra NPWS tel 02/4423 2170).

West of Kiama, a steep road leads to Mount Saddleback Lookout, from where on a clear day you can get an incredible view of the entire coast – from the Royal National Park in the north to Jervis Bay in the south. Beyond the lookout you can head north to join the Illawarra Highway, and follow that inland to Macquarie Pass, the gateway to the Southern Highlands. The Macquarie Pass National Park is one of the southernmost stands of Australia's subtropical rainforest; there's a car park on the road from where the Cascades Walk takes you on a two-kilometre loop through the forest to Cascades Waterfall. Alternatively, Jamberoo Mountain Pass Road heads to Robertson on the Illawarra Highway via the Budderoo National Park where the Minnamurra Rainforest Centre (park daily 9am–5pm, centre and Lyrebird Cafe 9am–4pm; boardwalk closes 4pm, track closes 3pm; tel 02/4236 0469; car entry $10 at Minnamurra only), has a wheelchair-accessible elevated loop boardwalk from the centre (1.6km return; 30min–1hr) through subtropical and temperate rainforest – you'll see cabbage tree palms, staghorn ferns and impressive Illawarra fig trees – and a viewing platform to Minnamurra Falls. You can continue half way on a paved walk with some steep sections leading to the upper falls (2.6km return; 1.5–2hr). The impressive Carrington Falls, also within the park, are 8km east of Robertson by road, and are worth a detour: a turn-off from the Jamberoo Mountain Pass Road leads to lookout points over the waterfalls. Free bushcamping is possible in both Macquarie Pass and Budderoo national parks.

Otherwise if you want to stay in this area you'll find plenty of the usual motels strung out along the highway. There's an abundance of B&Bs and self-catering holiday units too; the tourist office has a comprehensive list and can book accommodation for free. Budget alternatives in Kiama include Kiama Backpackers, 31 Bong Bong St, very close to the train station and right near the beach (tel & fax 02/4233 1881; dorms $20, rooms $35–55), though it sometimes closes down in winter; and the Grand Hotel, on the corner of Manning and Bong Bong streets (tel 02/4232 1037; $55–80), which has budget-priced, old-fashioned share-bathroom pub accommodation – the pub restaurant serves decent filling meals lunch and dinner daily. The closest campsite to the centre is at Blowhole Point Holiday Park right near the blowhole (tel 02/4232 2707; www.kiama.net/holiday/blowhole; vans $35–55, en-suite vans $55–80), while Easts Beach Caravan Park, a couple of kilometres south of Kiama (tel 02/4232 2124 or 1800 674 444, www.kiama.com.au/eastpark; en-suite cabins $80–150), on the beach with safe, sheltered swimming; the grassy park has a camp kitchen, playground and tennis courts. There are plenty of places to eat – Thai, Chinese, Italian and lots of cafés – with a concentration on Manning and Terralong streets. For a great coffee, the smart esse, 55 Collins St (dinner bookings tel 02/4232 2811; from 10am, closed Tues, dinner Thurs–Sat; licensed & BYO) is a café by day and modern Australian restaurant by night. Sunday lunch is hugely popular at the relaxed Zumo Restaurant, 127 Terralong St (tel 02/4232 2222; lunch Sun only, dinner Wed–Sun; licensed & BYO), housed in an old building with lots of greenery and outdoor seating; food is adventurous and eclectic.

Gerringong, 10km south of Kiama, is wonderfully scenic, set against green hills with glorious sweeping beach views. Budget accommodation includes a YHA hostel, Nestor House, on Fern Street, just 250m from Werri Beach (tel & fax 02/4234 1249; dorms $20, rooms $55–80), or there's the Werri Beach Holiday Park (tel 02/4234 1285; vans $55–80, en-suite cabins $80–200), which benefits from a great location at the northern end of Seven Mile Beach, between Crooked River and the sand. The best café in town is Gerringong Gourmet Deli, 133 Fern St, which does divine fish and chips and gourmet burgers. Non-meat eaters should head for the Perfect Break Vegetarian Cafe, further along at no. 115.

Information by Rough Guides

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